Back at the Chateau

I’m back at the Chateau d’Malérargues, in the Cevennes mountains in France.  You may remember that I lived here for three months in the early part of 2007, studying the Roy Hart vocal technique with the teachers here.  I learned a lot, made some very fine friendships, and fell in love with the Chateau and France in general.

It was long, though thankfully uneventful 24 hours of travel to get here.  I flew from Cleveland to Atlanta, where I had a three-hour layover (what does one do with a three-hour layover in Atlanta?  Why get a massage and eat lunch in the International concourse, where the food court has a live pianist playing on a grand piano) and then a seven-hour flight from Atlanta to Paris.    Four more hours in the Paris train station (a perfect excuse for a pan chocolate with hazelnuts and an Orangina) until I could take the super-fast French TGV (“tay-jay-vay”) train first two hours to Vallence (90 minute layover) and an hour to Nimes.  Once in Nimes, a cab to the Nimes airport, a 30 minute wait in line, and an hour or so drive up into the mountains, with a quick stop at the “Intermarche,” (kind of like a super Target that sells food and sundries) for food and essentials (toilet paper, laundry soap, candles).  The drive, my first in France, was very smooth, even through Friday rush hour traffic surrounding Nimes and the dreaded French roundabouts that the locals take at 40 MPH.

I arrived at the Chateau to warm wishes of “Bienvenue!”  from my dear friends Jay, his wife Marie Paule, and Ivan (“ee-vahn”), as well as Ivan’s cat Orange, whom I took care of when I lived here.  (I have to say it does my heart good to see Orange pad quickly across the Chateau property to greet me, when I’ve been absent from his life for a year).  The chateau grounds are more beautiful than they have ever been, thanks to Jay’s knowledge of tree husbandry and Marie Paule’s hand with flowers.  The iris and roses are blooming, and the Acacia trees are blooming late this year, their chandeliered flowers filling the air with the scent of peaches; yeasty and sweet.

I chatted for a bit and declined one of Jay’s famous cocktails, and then went to my room for a bath and to unpack.  We all had dinner (along with friends Jennifer and Pascal) in Marie Paul and Jay’s flat.  We feasted on barbecued chicken, ratatouille, and rice.  With a lovely French Rosé, which is not at all like the horrid US Sutter Home version.  Ending with the most delicious fromage course.  Mostly goat cheeses of many varieties.

Today Jay took me to nearby Anduze, where I shopped for Provançial table linens.  The centre of town was filled with people, as this is a holiday weekend.  We strolled about and shopped, after which we dined in a local eatery.  I had typical “Anduzian” food: a lovely creamy salad of tuna and leek, and a local sausage made with chestnuts (it had a surprisingly creamy texture).  Rosé, coffee, and a relaxed South France two-hour luncheon with a long conversational catch-up with each other’s lives.

I’m still fighting the American “must be busy at all times-itus.”  It’s hard to get used to leaving my rooms unlocked (I keep thinking I need my keys) and just taking the time to sit and breathe.

Last night I was serenaded to sleep by nightingales and crickets, and this morning I heard a real live cuckoo for the first time.

Not bad, for my first twenty-four hours.