Baddeck, Nova Scotia and the Cabot Trail to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park

August 22, 2026 

I'm spending the last of two nights in Baddeck, Nova Scotia.  My hotel room overlooks the Bras d'Or Lakes.  Nice digs, huh?

The view from my hotel room

What a fantastic natural wonder Nova Scotia is!  It's like a coastal highway, a national forest, and gorgeous mountain passes all at once.  And (as my guidebook tells me) Nova Scotia is hard enough to travel to, that it's not yet built up with hotels and tourist diversions.  (Though you can certainly innertube, kayak, or swim on its waters, climb, camp, or trek up its trails, or just drive the Cabot Trail to the National Park for breath-taking views.

What I didn't know was that because of mountain driving on two-lane twisting roads, the round trip from my hotel to the National Park, back to the hotel would take 7 hours of driving.  The first three I had the top down on my convertible, and even with sunblock, I got quite a tan.

A lake on my drive to the park

It was a little hard to take photos on the Cabot Trail up to the National Park-- before the Park, there are no designated turnouts for views.  The views come hot and heavy, and there's nowhere to stop to take a photo.  And going 80 km an hour, you can't just stop on a dime.  Also, there is such an abundance of riches of views on the Cabot Trail, that, well, how many photos of beautiful lake vistas, gurgling streams,  or mountain passes do you need?

A sunflower field on the side of the road

I had a noon-four reservation for parking at the Sky Line Hiking Trail in the Park, and arrived there at 1PM.  Already heated by the convertible car ride, I stood in the shadeless parking lot to adjust my backpack (where did one of my waist straps go? ) and readjust my walking poles (why weren't they locking properly?). Even though I had eaten a lovely ham and swiss sandwich from a nearby roadside eatery an hour ago, I was pretty cranky and hot from the drive in and standing in the shadeless, hot parking lot wasn't making things better.  Once I got to the trailhead, I balked: it was at least a half mile up a steep incline with no shade.  I knew the trail would take about two hours, and combined with the three-hour drive back to the hotel, I decided to skip the hike. I already walked a lot in Charlottetown and my body was pretty achy.  Add that to the crankiness of my moment, and I decided to let the sunk costs be sunk, and go on my way.  Once in the car, I had the thought that because of my age, I needed to start taking care of myself like I would take care of a twelve-year-old:  engage in a lot of independent activity, but be sure I put sunblock on, and don't tire myself out by doing too much.  Ten years ago I didn't have to think this way, but so goes life.

A few Park photos:

The Gulf of St. Lawrence

VW Status check:  Still running loud, but still no warning lights.  Spent several hours driving yesterday and today.  Had to engage the Turbo today, driving behind an RV going 20 KPH in an 80 zone for ages on a two-lane road with no passing zones.  Apparently the RV driver didn't think to pull over to let people pass.  When there was FINALLY a passing zone, I gunned the Turbo, passed the car behind the RV and the RV.  Another car appeared in the opposite lane.  I made it fine.  My car can gun it when necessary.  And still no warning lights.

Tomorrow a drive with several suggested stops to the town of Liscomb Mills, Nova Scotia.